Russell, known as Kororāreka in the early 19th century, was the first permanent European settlement and seaport in

New Zealand New Zealand ( mi, Aotearoa ) is an island country in the southwestern Pacific Ocean. It consists of two main landmasses—the North Island () and the South Island ()—and over 700 smaller islands. It is the sixth-largest island count ...

. It is situated in the

Bay of Islands The Bay of Islands is an area on the east coast of the Far North District of the North Island of New Zealand. It is one of the most popular fishing, sailing and tourist destinations in the country, and has been renowned internationally for its ...

, in the far north of the

North Island The North Island, also officially named Te Ika-a-Māui, is one of the two main islands of New Zealand, separated from the larger but much less populous South Island by the Cook Strait. The island's area is , making it the world's 14th-largest ...

History and culture

Māori settlement

Before the arrival of the Europeans, Russell was inhabited by Māori because of its salubrious climate and the abundance of food, fish and fertile soil. Russell was then known as Kororareka, and was a small settlement on the coast. The early European explorers like Britain’s James Cook (1769) and France’s Marion du Fresne (1772) have remarked that the area was quite prosperous.

European settlement

When European and American ships began visiting New Zealand in the early 1800s, the

indigenous Indigenous may refer to: *Indigenous peoples *Indigenous (ecology), presence in a region as the result of only natural processes, with no human intervention *Indigenous (band), an American blues-rock band *Indigenous (horse), a Hong Kong racehorse ...

Māori Māori or Maori can refer to: Relating to the Māori people * Māori people of New Zealand, or members of that group * Māori language, the language of the Māori people of New Zealand * Māori culture * Cook Islanders, the Māori people of the C ...

quickly recognised there were great advantages in trading with these strangers, whom they called . The Bay of Islands offered a safe anchorage and had a large Māori population. To attract ships, Māori began to supply food and timber. What the Māori population wanted was respect, plus firearms, alcohol, and other goods of European manufacture. Kororareka developed as a result of this trade but soon earned a very bad reputation as a community without laws and full of prostitution. It became known as the "Hell Hole of the Pacific", despite the translation of its name being "How sweet is the penguin" ( meaning

blue penguin The little penguin (''Eudyptula minor'') is a species of penguin from New Zealand. They are commonly known as little blue penguins or blue penguins owing to their slate-blue plumage and are also known by their Māori name . The Australian lit ...

and meaning sweet).McCloy, Nicola (2006). ''Whykickamoocow – curious New Zealand place names''., Random House New Zealand. European law had no influence and Māori law was seldom enforced within the town's area. Fighting on the beach at Kororareka in March 1830, between northern and southern hapū within the Ngāpuhi iwi, became known as the

Girls’ War The Girls’ War is the name given to fighting on the beach at Russell, New Zealand, then known as Kororāreka in March, 1830 between the northern and southern hapū (subtribe) within the Ngāpuhi iwi (tribe). The cause The Girls' War is so named ...

. On 30 January 1840 at the Christ Church, Governor Hobson read his Proclamations (which were the beginnings of the

Treaty of Waitangi The Treaty of Waitangi ( mi, Te Tiriti o Waitangi) is a document of central importance to the history, to the political constitution of the state, and to the national mythos of New Zealand. It has played a major role in the treatment of the M ...

) in the presence of a number of settlers and the Maori chief

Moka Te Kainga-mataa Moka Kainga-mataa e Kaingamataa/Te Kaingamata/Te Kainga-mata/Te Kainga-mataa'' (1790s–1860s) was a Māori rangatira (chief) of the Ngā Puhi iwi from Northland in New Zealand. He was distinguished in war and an intelligent participant in the ...

. A document confirming what had happened was signed at this time by around forty witnesses, including Moka, the only Maori signatory. The following week, the Treaty proceedings would then move across to the western side of the bay to Waitangi. By this time, Kororareka was an important mercantile centre and served as a vital resupply port for

whaling Whaling is the process of hunting of whales for their usable products such as meat and blubber, which can be turned into a type of oil that became increasingly important in the Industrial Revolution. It was practiced as an organized industry ...

and sealing operations. When the Colony of New Zealand was founded in that year, Hobson was reluctant to choose Kororareka as his

capital Capital may refer to: Common uses * Capital city, a municipality of primary status ** List of national capital cities * Capital letter, an upper-case letter Economics and social sciences * Capital (economics), the durable produced goods used f ...

, due to its bad reputation. Instead he purchased land at

Okiato Okiato or Old Russell is a small town in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, south of present-day Russell. It was founded in 1840 and served as New Zealand's first national capital until 1841, when the seat of government was moved to Auckland. ...

, situated five kilometres to the south, and renamed it Russell in honour of the Secretary of State for the Colonies,

Lord John Russell John Russell, 1st Earl Russell, (18 August 1792 – 28 May 1878), known by his courtesy title Lord John Russell before 1861, was a British Whig and Liberal statesman who served as Prime Minister of the United Kingdom from 1846 to 1852 and ag ...

. Captain Hobson soon decided that the move to the Okiato site was a mistake, and

Auckland Auckland (pronounced ) ( mi, Tāmaki Makaurau) is a large metropolitan city in the North Island of New Zealand. The List of New Zealand urban areas by population, most populous urban area in the country and the List of cities in Oceania by po ...

was selected as the new capital not long after. Kororareka was part of the Port of Russell, and after Russell (Okiato) became virtually deserted, Kororareka gradually came to be known as Russell as well. In January 1844, Governor Robert FitzRoy officially designated Kororareka as part of the township of Russell. Today, the name ''Russell'' applies only to Kororareka, while the former capital is known either by its original name of ''Okiato'' or as ''Old Russell''.

Catholic mission

In 1841–42,

Jean Baptiste Pompallier Jean-Baptiste François Pompallier (11 December 1801 – 21 December 1871) was the first Roman Catholic bishop in New Zealand and, with priests and brothers of the Marist order, he organised the Roman Catholic Church throughout the country. ...

established a

Roman Catholic Roman or Romans most often refers to: *Rome, the capital city of Italy *Ancient Rome, Roman civilization from 8th century BC to 5th century AD *Roman people, the people of ancient Rome *'' Epistle to the Romans'', shortened to ''Romans'', a lette ...

mission in Russell, which contained a

printing press A printing press is a mechanical device for applying pressure to an inked surface resting upon a printing, print medium (such as paper or cloth), thereby transferring the ink. It marked a dramatic improvement on earlier printing methods in wh ...

for the production of Māori-language religious texts. His building, known as

Pompallier Mission Pompallier House is a nineteenth-century building located in Russell, New Zealand which once served as the headquarters to the French Catholic mission to the Western Pacific. It is named after Jean Baptiste Pompallier, the first vicar apostolic ...

, remains in the care of

Heritage New Zealand Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga (initially the National Historic Places Trust and then, from 1963 to 2014, the New Zealand Historic Places Trust) ( mi, Pouhere Taonga) is a Crown entity with a membership of around 20,000 people that advocate ...

. On 18 November 1844, while at anchor in the Bay of Islands, Mary Davis Wallis describes Kororarika as a town "which appears small, consisting of a few houses along the shore, and cottages scattered here and there on the slope of the hills behind. Nothing is to be seen back of the town but lofty hills not particularly verdant."

Flagstaff dispute

At the beginning of the

Flagstaff War The Flagstaff War, also known as Heke's War, Hōne Heke's Rebellion and the Northern War, was fought between 11 March 1845 and 11 January 1846 in and around the Bay of Islands, New Zealand. The conflict is best remembered for the actions of Hō ...

in 1845 (touched off by the repeated felling and re-erection of the symbol of British sovereignty on

Flagstaff Hill Flagstaff Hill usually refers to a hill on which a flag was erected. It may refer to: Place names Australia * Flagstaff Hill, near Linton, Victoria * Flagstaff Hill, Melbourne, a hill in the historic Flagstaff Gardens, Melbourne * Flagstaff Hill, S ...

above the town), the town of Kororareka/Russell was sacked by

Hōne Heke Hōne Wiremu Heke Pōkai ( 1807/1808 – 7 August 1850), born Heke Pōkai and later often referred to as Hōne Heke, was a highly influential Māori rangatira (chief) of the Ngāpuhi iwi (tribe) and a war leader in northern New Zealand; he was ...

, after diversionary raids drew away the British defenders. The flagstaff was felled for the fourth time at the commencement of the Battle of Kororareka, and the inhabitants fled aboard British ships, which then shelled and destroyed most of the houses.Russell (from the

Lonely Planet Lonely Planet is a travel guide book publisher. Founded in Australia in 1973, the company has printed over 150 million books. History Early years Lonely Planet was founded by married couple Maureen and Tony Wheeler. In 1972, they embarked ...

New Zealand, 13th Edition, September 2006. Hōne Heke directed his warriors not to interfere with Christ Church and the

Marae

The local Kororareka Marae is a traditional meeting ground of the

Ngāpuhi Ngāpuhi (or Ngā Puhi) is a Māori iwi associated with the Northland region of New Zealand and centred in the Hokianga, the Bay of Islands, and Whangārei. According to the 2018 New Zealand census, the estimated population of Ngāpuhi is 165, ...

hapū In Māori and New Zealand English, a ' ("subtribe", or "clan") functions as "the basic political unit within Māori society". A Māori person can belong to or have links to many hapū. Historically, each hapū had its own chief and normally opera ...

of Te Kapotai.

Demographics

Russell covers and had an estimated population of as of with a population density of people per km². Russell had a population of 762 at the

2018 New Zealand census Eighteen or 18 may refer to: * 18 (number), the natural number following 17 and preceding 19 * one of the years 18 BC, AD 18, 1918, 2018 Film, television and entertainment * ''18'' (film), a 1993 Taiwanese experimental film based on the sho ...

, an increase of 60 people (8.5%) since the 2013 census, and a decrease of 24 people (−3.1%) since the

2006 census 6 (six) is the natural number following 5 and preceding 7. It is a composite number and the smallest perfect number. In mathematics Six is the smallest positive integer which is neither a square number nor a prime number; it is the second small ...

. There were 339 households, comprising 372 males and 390 females, giving a sex ratio of 0.95 males per female. The median age was 58.8 years (compared with 37.4 years nationally), with 69 people (9.1%) aged under 15 years, 66 (8.7%) aged 15 to 29, 351 (46.1%) aged 30 to 64, and 276 (36.2%) aged 65 or older. Ethnicities were 86.6% European/Pākehā, 20.1% Māori, 1.2% Pacific peoples, 2.0% Asian, and 1.6% other ethnicities. People may identify with more than one ethnicity. The percentage of people born overseas was 33.9, compared with 27.1% nationally. Although some people chose not to answer the census's question about religious affiliation, 54.3% had no religion, 31.5% were Christian, 1.6% had Māori religious beliefs, 0.8% were Hindu, 0.4% were Buddhist and 0.8% had other religions. Of those at least 15 years old, 153 (22.1%) people had a bachelor's or higher degree, and 102 (14.7%) people had no formal qualifications. The median income was $27,100, compared with $31,800 nationally. 87 people (12.6%) earned over $70,000 compared to 17.2% nationally. The employment status of those at least 15 was that 261 (37.7%) people were employed full-time, 114 (16.5%) were part-time, and 24 (3.5%) were unemployed. Much of the accommodation in the area consists of holiday homes or tourist accommodation.

Economy

Duke of Marlborough Hotel Russell Bay of Islands

Russell is now mostly a "bastion of cafés, gift shops and B&Bs". Pompallier Mission, the historic printery/tannery/storehouse of the early

missionaries, Is the oldest surviving industrial building in New Zealand, while the town's Christ Church is the country's oldest surviving

Anglican Anglicanism is a Western Christian tradition that has developed from the practices, liturgy, and identity of the Church of England following the English Reformation, in the context of the Protestant Reformation in Europe. It is one of th ...

church. The surrounding area also contains many expensive holiday homes, as well as New Zealand's most expensive rental accommodation, the Eagles Nest. The photographer

Laurence Aberhart Laurence Geoffrey Aberhart (born 1949) is a New Zealand photographer. Biography Aberhart was born in Nelson in 1949, along with three siblings, and was educated at Nelson College from 1963 to 1966.''Nelson College Old Boys' Register, 1856–200 ...

lives here. A car ferry across the Bay of Islands runs between Okiato and

Opua Opua is a locality in the Bay of Islands, in the sub-tropical Northland Region of New Zealand. It is notable as the first port for overseas yachts arriving in the country after crossing the Pacific Ocean. In the original 1870s plans for the ...

, and is the main tourist access to Russell. There is a land connection, but this requires a substantial detour (the ferry route is only 2.3 kilometres, while the land route is 43.5 km).

Education

Russell School is a coeducational full primary (years 1–8) school with a roll of as of The school opened in 1892.

References

External links

Russell
(a local page about the town)
Russell Info
(tourism information from bayofislands.net) {{Far North District Populated places in the Northland Region Far North District History of the Northland Region